Archive for the 'Travel Stories' Category

New Zealand: Bright as a Starfish Lighting the Way

H&D at Waitakare Ranges

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This is the final post – Part 9 – of the Community-Driven Tour 2010 to New Zealand.  (To read these posts from the beginning, head here.)

It’s hard to imagine all we have done and accomplished and seen in just a month. Virtually every day included work of some sort, whether that work was engaging a group of 300 conference attendees, phone sessions with coaching clients, writing, thinking.

And here it was, Saturday afternoon, the day before our flight back to the U.S. After our exhilarating time in Dunedin, we were pleased when Aly offered her home as our resting place for Saturday night. We anticipated a quiet dinner, an early night to bed, followed by a quiet day of packing and preparing to leave on Sunday.

Silly silly us.

Aly picked us up at the airport following our flight from the South Island, excited to tell us that Garth was in town to teach a course and would be joining us for dinner.

We had just enough time for a walk before dinner. And so we headed east from Aly’s townhome, through the tall trees and steep sloping paths of Western Park, down towards the harbor. On that very last full day before headinghome, we ended up in the exact spot where we had spent our first morning, watching our first New Zealand sunrise. The perfect circle.

Dinner with Aly and Garth was another perfect circle – a long night laughing and sharing stories with the two people whose relentless efforts had brought us to the land we now loved and couldn’t wait to return to.

Sunday morning. Aly had offered to use our few remaining hours to show us “her” Auckland. “You’ve spent a lot of time in East Auckland. Let me show you West Auckland.” How could we say no?

Green of the Rainforest

After a quick stop for coffee and pastries, Aly drove us into the rainforest of the Waitakare Ranges, barely ½ hour outside the modern metropolis that is Auckland. It is hard to imagine the city abutting so close to the dense green we are suddenly surrounded by.

The Arataki Visitor’s Centre is the perfect spot for us newbies – an interpretive museum to teach us about the rainforest, and all sorts of treetop decks to observe it from. Again we learn about the hazards of the possum; by now it has sunk in.

There are Maori totems everywhere in the Visitor’s Centre. Aly tells us that some fundamentalist religious groups have attempted to have the bold maleness of those totems covered up or otherwise “removed.” We sigh that fundamentalism everywhere is sadly the same.

Surfer, surf & cliffs

We would love to stay, but Aly insists that we must get to our next stop during low tide. Another ½ hour’s drive and we are at Piha Beach, where the waves are huge and hazardous – the perfect draw for surfers. The tide is out, and I immediately roll up my pants legs to wade into the water, to explore.

Aly’s plans are about more than just wading, though. She leads the way towards the rocks, where we will climb to see what she keeps calling a “blow hole.” The rocks are covered with mussels of all sizes, from tiny babies to fully mature, ready-to-eat green lip morsels. Walking over that combination will definitely require shoes.

Unfortunately, I’m wearing my “toe shoes” – the Vibram 5 Finger shoes that cling to your feet and feel like you are walking barefoot (heavenly, by the way). Having taken off those shoes to go wading, I know I will never get my wet feet back into them. And so I tell Aly and Dimitri to go along without me. I’ll just hang out in the tide – not a bad consolation prize, I am sure.

The water is pure delight. I am smiling like a kid, thinking, “Tonight I will be on a plane heading home, and this afternoon I am…”

I don’t get to finish the thought. The tide came in with one wave, moving up from toes to knees to thighs in a matter of seconds. I turn sideways, letting the wave wash past me, intent that I will not be knocked down. I would like to say my resolve to stay standing was motivated by my desire to stay dry prior to our flight that evening. But in truth my only thought was, “Save the camera. Save the camera.”

Starfish & Mussels

The water recedes. I look at the mussel-covered rocks beside me, and there it is – a starfish. Not just a starfish, but a HUGE starfish. It has 12 arms. It is purplish orange, if there can be such a color.

Before I can say aloud, “Oh my God, a starfish!” I see another. And another. They are everywhere.

The starfish has great meaning around the Community-Driven Institute. Based around the work of Brafman and Beckstrom, we have strived to build the Institute’s work around the “starfish” model of leaderless leadership. I have no words to describe what it felt like to encounter the living emblem of that work.

Collage - starfish shots

Aly and Dimitri return from seeing the blow hole. Dimitri is all smiles, telling me it is magnificent and hoping his photos came out to show me. But all I can do is stare and point and smile. We are surrounded by starfish. Even Aly had never seen anything like it.

"Blow Hole" in the Rocks

We shoot for as long as time will permit, and then we are back in the car, heading to the third and final stop of the tour. Aly winds the car up one mountain road and down the next. I nap in the back seat until the car stops again.

We are at Muriwai – a rookery for Australian Gannets. Being from North America, neither Dimitri nor I had heard of these birds whose heads are shaped for diving into the water at speeds as fast as 140km per hour ( approx. 90 mph). Their flight is more like soaring than flying. It is majestic to watch.

However this is more than a place to watch these amazing birds fly. It is a nesting area. We stand above the ledge where babies await their parents’ feasts. Grey babies calling, “Feed me feed me feed me” and mamas doing just that. Not just one or two, but scores of babies and scores of parents. We stand in the wind, mesmerized. None of us wants to leave.

Gannett Soaring

We make a quick stop along the way back to Aly’s – a roadside stall that sells ice cream and hot dogs and toasted cheese sandwiches. This will be our last Hokey Pokey Ice Cream for a long time.

Then it’s back to Aly’s for another quick snack – one I am still dreaming about. Olives the size of my thumb. Luscious bread with seeds running through it – bread I am still hoping to encounter at some bakery somewhere, here in the States.

And then we are at the airport, exchanging money, going through customs, buying a shot-glass for Nick (who gets a shot glass from everywhere we travel.) This “last day of relaxing and getting ready to leave” has turned into one of the most breathtaking days of the whole trip, thanks entirely to Aly.

Mama Gannet feeding Baby

After this full month of glorious adventures, sitting in the Auckland airport as we prepared to head home, Dimitri and I asked each other, “What was the best part of this time for you?”

With all we had seen and done, the answer came to me immediately. It is something we can always count on to be grand – the one piece of New Zealand that lingers delightfully in my mind, making me smile deep inside each time I think of it.

“Just spending time with friends, new and old,” I told my partner.

Yes, New Zealand was wonderful beyond anything we had imagined. But the memories that will linger are of the people who made this month so special. The hospitality for which New Zealand is renowned feels like a beautiful bow, gift wrapping friendships with people we look forward to seeing again. We are already talking about doing another “Community-Driven New Zealand Tour” in 2011 – hoping to do another consultants class, and to spend more time doing workshops in communities across the South Island.

The road leading to this point has been so life-giving, it is hard to imagine what’s next. One thing is certain, though. The road ahead is illuminated by thousands of starfish, born of the brilliant pieces of other starfish, multiplying and making this work their own, and shedding their own light on the future we are all creating together.


Photos: Hildy and Dimitri

Dunedin: Our New Zealand Adventure Continues

Dunedin

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For those who were keeping track, you’re right – we never finished sharing our New Zealand adventures. Some of you know my mom fell just days after we returned from our Down Under Tour.  She’s doing great now – many thanks to all who sent well-wishes, strong energy, white light and overall great juju.  But between staying with Rose to care for her, and then navigating what masquerades as a healthcare system in the US, much of our work at the CDI, including blogging, was sidetracked.

And for those who are REALLY keeping track, yes I am finishing up this series on New Zealand from a hotel suite in Perth, Australia. Which I guess means Perth is next on the blog to-do list!

So without further ado, here is Part 8 of the Community-Driven Tour 2010 to New Zealand.  (To read these posts from the beginning, head here.)

Dunedin
If it weren’t for our friend and colleague, Margy-Jean Malcolm, it is likely we would have skipped Dunedin this trip.  But with very little notice, Margy-Jean managed to assemble a dozen community development people to talk with us about their work, so there we were.

And a good thing it is, because no-one told us that Dunedin is AMAZING.

Dunedin is on the east coast of the South Island, towards the southern end.  The landscape instantly tells why the Scottish settled here to create New Zealand’s first city – rolling green hills folding into dramatic ocean cliffs.  The scenery is breathtakingly achingly calmingly heart-stoppingly beautiful.

Road to Sandfly Bay

We had less than 48 hours to spend in Dunedin.  In that time we met with community leaders to talk about what it really means to do community development work.

We slid down soft deep sand dunes to watch a lone yellow-eyed penguin gather food for his/her baby.  We experienced scenery we’d only before imagined from calendar photos. We stood surrounded by thousands of terns, guarded by seals (or is it vice versa?).

We had dinner and a long evening of conversation with the quietly intriguing Margy-Jean, learning about her art and her life.  We slept in 2 hotels in 2 nights, ate in terrific restaurants (which we came to expect in New Zealand, wherever we were.)

And mostly we vowed to return.

Penguins!
Our community meeting was at 3pm. At 5pm, we quickly changed clothes, and piled into Margy-Jean’s car for the drive to the Yellow-Eyed Penguin Preserve at Sandfly Bay.  We were there with the blessing of Sue Murray, General Manager of the Yellow-Eyed Penguin Trust. Sue had warned that we might not see any penguins, as it was molting season when the penguins spend most of their time pining away on their nests, wishing those new feather would grow in already.

Yellow Eyed Penguin

According to Wikipedia, “The current status of this penguin is endangered, with an estimated population of 4000. It is considered one of the world’s rarest penguin species. The main threats include habitat degradation and introduced predators. It may be the most ancient of all living penguins.”  We have been warned that tourists often unwittingly get between mama and baby at feeding time, and that if we do see penguins, we should stay back and let the feeding proceed unimpeded.

The drive to Sandfly Bay is spectacular, with a view of Dunedin that I might not have believed if I’d simply seen it in a painting – the scene at the top of this post. Idyllic, dramatic – simply perfect.  As we head off the main road and up towards the beach, I tell Margy-Jean that if we see no penguins at all, the ride alone will have been thrill enough.

Penguin

But we do see a penguin. Margy-Jean spotted him swimming almost immediately upon our arrival.  We photograph him briefly, getting out of his (her?) way quickly so as not to interfere with baby being fed.  Watching him/her waddle towards its nest in the grasses, we are 3 giant smiles-on-legs walking along the beach.  Later we see another pair, one laying down and one seemingly standing guard, high on a rock along the cliffs.

The sunset was dramatic against the huge rocks that look as if they had been tossed into the sea just to add “mood” to the scene. (It worked.)  We know it’s not fair to compare, but California’s Route 1 doesn’t hold a candle to the seascapes of Dunedin.

An Evening with Margy-Jean
We head to Margy-Jean’s house for dinner prepared by her chef son, Andrew.  The house has personality built into every room, each with ceramic-tiled fireplaces and intricate woodwork.  We marvel at the textiles Margy-Jean has created by her own hand, learning she has been studying in a masters program that will culminate in certification by a visiting textile master from the UK. A very big deal.

Her textiles are overwhelming.  A meter-long piece crafted from bits of ribbon and fabric to recreate the feeling of seaweed, with bits of actual seaweed sewn in – all of it the rich aquamarine color of the waters we have seen all across New Zealand.

A quilted vest made of tiny 3/4″ squares, each and every one embroidered with a different tiny pattern, some with beads, others with fuzzy threads. These tiny squares of wonder were then assembled into a fabric, then quilted, then turned into a vest.

We learn this overpoweringly beautiful work has been her therapy, the thing that gave her life during some tough emotional times.  We are in awe of the power the creative arts have to heal, to give us strength, to nurture the spirit.  I think of Jeane Vogel’s adamant declaration that Art Saves lives, and I want Jeane to know Margy-Jean.

Hildy & Margy-JeanWe talked into the night. Talked about whether social media will mean the death of real conversation. Talked about American politics and how much it hurts our spirts to live there right now.

(Being out of the country for this long has me looking more objectively at what it means to live in America.  One question I am pondering is whether living in America is part of a pact – a commitment to perfecting our country’s being. Are the words “to form a more perfect union” an assignment? And does that mean being a citizen of the US will always be an effort?  Could that help me reconcile what it means to be an American? Could it help me reconcile what it means to form a more perfect world?)

Arriving at the hotel after midnight, we sleep as if dead.

Aramoana Beach
Thursday morning was spent moving hotels and handling other travel logistics.  And so our 2nd official “day off” since our arrival 3 weeks ago started at about 2pm when we drove to Aramoana Beach.

Aramoana Beach

We walked about ½ mile along the beach against fierce wind, the sky changing every minute – sun clouds blue gray wind birds – a moody windy fall sky. The scenery was breathtaking beyond imagination. And we were the only humans around.

That would have been enough to have had this be a most memorable day. But then we walked another ½ mile or so out onto the Mole – a jetty that appears to have been furnished by rail many years ago, now abandoned to the birds and the seals. At the very end of the Mole we found a rookery of White-Fronted Terns, dotted with the occasional seal.

Seal and ternsIt is hard to explain what it felt like to be surrounded by so much LIFE.  There we were, the lone humans among thousands and thousands of beautiful birds, all facing the same direction against the wind, flying about us.  Seals lazing, sleeping, waking up to cough, going back to sleep.

It was 6:30pm when we left, heading back along the narrow harbour road.  Over dinner we vowed to come back to Dunedin, to take our time to explore.

Fleur’s and the Moeraki Boulders
And that’s all the day-off there was! It’s now Friday and we are driving from Dunedin to Christchurch, normally a 4-5 hour drive, but we make several stops and it takes the whole day.

Sheep

The drive is the kind of idyllic we have come to expect – rolling green hills meeting other rolling green hills in a patchwork I am looking forward to playing with in fabric and paint when we get home.  Sheep everywhere. Bliss.

Our first stop as we head north along Route 1 is Moeraki, where we have a reservation at Fleur’s Restaurant.  And at 2pm on a Friday afternoon in the middle of nowhere, we absolutely needed that reservation!

An hour outside Dunedin, in a fishing village so tiny and off-the-track you could easily drive by without knowing you had passed a town, Fleur’s is legendary. (Stars like Gweneth Paltrow make a point of stopping at Fleur’s.) We’ve been told that Fleur has commissioned her own fishing boards, to be sure the catch is fresh.

Food at Fleur's

And wow!  Fleur’s is precisely what we have been told it would be. Fleur herself is ever-present, choosing our meal for us after we tell her what we’re looking for.  Dimitri doesn’t know fish in this part of the world, so Fleur chooses. I don’t eat animals, so Fleur designs my meal as well.  And true to the legend, we had a feast fit for a king, sitting outside watching the boats rock and the gulls gather as the catch-of-the-day arrives at Fleur’s back door.  Dimitri’s whole fish is huge and – well – whole.  And my vegetarian meal is so artfully composed I became one of “those” tourists, photographing my food.

After such a lunch, we were pleased that the Moeraki Boulders were close by, as we desperately needed a walk.  The boulders look like they landed there by meteor shower, but actually they grow out of the cliffs that surround this beach. It is a grand sight, fun to walk around, a place we could stay and photograph all day as the sky changed its mood every few minutes.

Moeraki Boulders

But we had barely an hour before it was time to get back in the car to drive the rest of the way to Christchurch.  By noon tomorrow we’ll be on a plane to Auckland, and then the next day we fly home.

As happened at every turn during our month in New Zealand, however, even on that very last day in Auckland, we had no idea what was in store for us.

Up Next: Saying Goodbye to New Zealand

Photos and Video: DP and HG

Community Development – To What End?

(This is Part 7: Community-Driven Tour 2010 New Zealand. To read these posts from the beginning, head here.)

We flew to Christchurch then drove to Queenstown via Lake Tekapo, a lake made mesmerizingly green-blue by mineral deposits.

Lake Tekapo

Dimitri had made reservations at an apartment hotel in Queenstown that seemed online to be luxurious for the $150 NZD (approx. $110 US) per night we would be paying. It ended up being beyond our wildest expectations of what was possible. Kitchen, living room, dining room – the combined area of which was the size of the same rooms in my own home.  And while the bedrooms were spacious, the bathroom had a heated floor. Wow.

Room with a View

Still the most amazing part was the view. Huge bay window plus huge accordion glass doors to the balcony, all overlooking the ever-changing skies above Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.  We spent five days with that view as the backdrop for writing and catching up on work, skyping conference calls and coaching clients. Every hour or so, one of us would jump up to photograph the same scene under light that seemed to change with the whims of the gods.  Once a day we would walk the ½ hour trail that led along the lake from the hotel to downtown, to get provisions, or just to clear our heads.

Mountains outside our window

And then it was time to pack up again, this time heading to Dunedin, along the east coast of the South Island. Margy-Jean lives in Dunedin, and she had arranged for us to meet with community leaders, all of whom are doing some form of community development work.

The questions we facilitated were the same questions we have been asking everywhere we go, as we work to elevate new conversations throughout this sector.

  • What do we mean when we say community development?
  • Is community development a specific program or a way of being?
  • And if it is a way of being, are we being that in all our work?
  • If so, that would mean the community is an integral part of making every program work, that the wisdom of community members – real people – is infused in every aspect of every program. Is that what we mean?
  • And with all of it, to what end?
  • What results are we hoping to create by doing any or all of our work in that way? And for whom?

Lake and Sunrise

We got into a little of the “how.” Governance focused on leadership. Programs built by engaging community members from the inside out. Programs built on a base of shared community resources.

But mostly we talked about empowering community members to find their own wisdom, and more than anything to create the future of their own communities.

From there, we spent a magical evening with Margy-Jean, eating and talking and sharing and sightseeing and visiting the Yellow-Eyed Penguin Preserve, where, despite the caution that molting season made it unlikely that we would see any penguins, we did indeed see a few.  Dimitri and I spent an amazing second day in Dunedin – just the 2nd day out of the entire trip that included no work at all (unless you consider spending ½ day moving hotels and dealing with rental car issues “work”).  I’ll share stories and photos of our entire amazing (really and truly amazing) time in Dunedin in the next – and last – post of this tour.

And so we are on our way along Route 1 from Dunedin to Christchurch, where tomorrow we will catch a plane to Auckland, and where the next day we will catch a plane home.

As always happens when we are teaching, Dimitri and I feel we have learned far more during our time here than we have taught. We have had a glimpse into what lies ahead, both for the Institute, and for each of our personal quests. That glimpse tells us that indeed the whirlwind will continue, that the ride will continue to be incredible, and that the reward is nothing less than transformation for this beautiful bauble that is our planet.

The future is indeed bright. And each and every one of us is creating it every day.

Tomorrow: The final post – a gorgeous travel log with gorgeous photos of the gorgeous places we saw.